The first day at Angkor was hectic – you watch the sunrise with everyone else, and they pretty much do as you do, follow the same route, and there are scores of people around you all day. And where there are crowds, there are the locals pestering you to buy their souvenirs and refreshments.
Today, I wake up a little later, but it's still early and cool, and Sam takes me to a temple a bit further along the usual route taken by visitors. I'm at Preah Khan, and, to my surprise, there are very few people here and the locals haven't set up shop yet. The light is gorgeous, the air is cool, the birds are singing in the forest, and finally I can gaze at these remarkable temples without distraction.
Admiring these temples, I'm inspired to visit Aztec and Mayan sites in Central America, make the trip to Petra, Machu Pichu, see the Taj Mahal, and even road-trip it to Brewarinna, New South Wales believe it or not (its Aboriginal fish traps are "possibly the oldest surviving human-made structure in the world").
But, soon enough:
"You buy postcard sir? 10, one dollar. One, two, tree...."
"You buy scarf? Only 2 dollar. With Angkor Wat temple on it, see? I got new one for you in plastic. I have no sale yet today, sir. Please help open my business, sir."
I now won't judge people who come back from their trips with piles of junk – only the strong-willed can get through this gauntlet without opening their wallet.
"You think about it sir. Go see temple, think about it. Then come look in my store, I remember you."
I've never felt more like a tourist. The tourists I've judged, the ones with cameras around their necks, in reef sandals, navigating their way around tourist sights.
Sam takes me to a few more temples. They're all awe inspiring, but I'm getting tired, and I feel I can't invest as much energy and concentration into them as they deserve. We drive about half an hour north to another temple. I relish the opportunity to put my feet up, listen to some music, gaze over the countryside vista.
Sam takes me back to the hotel. I say goodbye to him. After a nap and a swim I head into the centre of Siem Reap.
The hotel staff tell me to go to 'Pub Street', a busy mecca for tourists. Why locals think all tourists want to do touristy things and eat western food is beyond me. But I do like people-watching, so I wander about a bit, find a local eatery a few blocks away, and call it a night.
"You eat, sir? Good food here. Look at menu, come sit down. You eat here, yes?"
I'm so exhausted, can't wait to head to the coast tomorrow. Angkor is a must-see, but I won't be rushing back in a hurry.
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